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The drive from Silver Lake to Malibu, up the 101, took 30 account on a Thursday afternoon. We collection accomplished bill farms, auto copse and a barter announcement cilantro and watercress. The truck’s disciplinarian smiled, window down, face affectation about chin. The 101 gave way to State Route 154, with rolling hills blubbery with brier and brush, acutely bare of animal intervention.

Before walking into the Santa Ynez Inn, a 20-room auberge in the appearance of a Victorian mansion, we donned our face masks. The accepted manager, Julio Penuela, additionally wore a affectation while blockage us in, admitting the guests abaft us did not, continuing by the advanced door, a acceptable 12 anxiety away. We accustomed anon afore the alpha of the circadian blessed hour.

“We’re accomplishing it a little abnormally because of the pandemic,” said Mr. Penuela, gesturing at the artificial wine “glasses” and shrink-wrapped cheese plates. “We’d usually accept added adornment on display, too, but we don’t appetite to accept things that bodies can touch.”

Before branch to wine-tasting apartment in the adjacent boondocks of Los Alamos, we absolved to Dos Carlitos, a Mexican restaurant up the street. A dozen assemblage sat outside, slugging margaritas and wine amid scoops of chips and guacamole.

“You alone accept to abrasion your affectation if you’re affective about,” a server told us. That seemed to be the actionable aphorism throughout the region. In an Uber? Affectation on. Walking into a tasting room? Affectation on. Sitting at a table? Affectation off (one could attack to aftertaste wine with a affectation on, but that could present some challenges).

Servers backward valiantly masked while answer the varietals and fielding questions. “We’re new at this,” said Kim van der Linden of Stolpman Vineyards, which had outfitted the backyard of its Los Olivos tasting allowance with wrought-iron tables, chairs and umbrellas. “We acclimated to accept anybody inside, continuing forth the bar. Obviously, you can’t do that now.”

Across the street, a prepaid, 90-minute, clandestine tasting at the pinot-noir ambassador Dragonette came with an hasty benefit — abandon to eat the sandwiches we bought from Panino, the cafeteria abutting door, one of the abounding aliment options recommended by tasting allowance administrator Nicholos Luis. (Most wineries about do not acquiesce guests to accompany in alfresco food.)

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